Belgrade and the Sava river

Belgrade is the capital of Serbia, a country in Eastern Europe with a population of approx. 6.8 million. The population of Belgrade itself is around 1.2 million. Situated at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, Belgrade's historical city center, unlike those of European capitals like Amsterdam, Paris, or Prague, does not boast a vast expanse of refined classical European architecture. Its turbulent history, marked by constant wars and numerous destructions, has nonetheless left it with many interesting and sometimes stunning architectural and cultural landmarks that merit a visit of at least a few days.

Saint Sava Church in winter

Summers in the Serbian capital are extremely hot, with temperatures sometimes rising above 40°C under cloudless skies. However, they are relatively short-lived. Expect summer weather from May until the end of September, and sometimes it extends to mid-October. During winter, temperatures often drop below freezing, and snowfall can persist for several weeks.
Navigating Belgrade without knowing Serbian is generally not problematic, as it is usually easy to find someone who speaks good English.

Sava river after the sunset

Walking down the streets of Belgrade, you won't encounter overwhelming sophistication. The streets may not be the cleanest or quietest. Despite this, Belgrade exudes a very specific atmosphere found only here, which many people find enjoyable.
The city center often becomes crowded. On weekends, especially in the evening, the newly built embankment is so packed that walking quickly through the area can be a challenge. At night, there's plenty of activity on the rivers, as most of Belgrade's nightclubs are actually floating venues.
One way to escape the crowds is to take a walk on a misty February evening. During this time, both the embankment and the Belgrade fortress are almost completely deserted.

Sava river embankment on a misty February evening

A brief history lesson is essential for a deeper understanding of Belgrade, as its history is etched throughout the city. One needs only to look carefully enough to decipher it.
Belgrade's recorded history begins around the 3rd century BCE when the Celtic tribe Scordisci settled in the area, founding the settlement of Singidun. After the Romans conquered the land, they latinized the name to Singidunum. Around 630 CE, the Serbs arrived at Singidunum, which was in ruins by then. The whiteness of the limestone ridge, along with the remains of an early Byzantine fortress built from stone of the same color and composition, likely inspired the Slavic name of the city – Beli Grad, meaning 'White City.'
The first documented mention of Belgrade dates back to 878, in a letter by Pope John VIII.
In 1403, the ongoing rivalry between the Serbs and Hungarians ended, and Belgrade was handed over to the Serbian despot Stefan Lazarević. The first Turkish siege of Belgrade occurred in 1440, which the city withstood. Similarly, in 1456, a massive 150,000-strong army led by Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror laid siege to the town, but was thwarted by the intervention of a passing Crusader army.
In 1521, as allied Hungary fell into disarray, Suleiman the Magnificent waged war on Belgrade, and the town subsequently fell into Ottoman hands. Under Turkish rule, Belgrade soon blossomed into a major trade center.
In 1688, the Habsburg armies captured Belgrade. However, this Austrian rule was short-lived, lasting only two years before the Turks re-conquered the town, transforming it into a frontier fortress.
Prince Eugene of Savoy took Belgrade in 1717, ushering in a period of Austrian control that lasted until 1739. By the time the Turks regained control, almost all European-style buildings were demolished, and the fortress was rebuilt. The Austrians briefly recaptured Belgrade again in 1789, holding it until 1791.

Model of a castle that once stood in the Belgrade fortress, destroyed in 1690

The first Serbian uprising occurred in 1804. Although the Turks reestablished control in 1813 and returned with vengeance, their oppressive rule incited another Serbian uprising in 1815. By 1830, an agreement was reached, allowing the Turks to maintain a presence in only six forts across Serbia, including Belgrade.
Belgrade was declared the capital of Serbia in 1841. At this time, it was still under Ottoman control, resulting in a dual government. The city began to develop gradually. In 1862, the Turkish garrison finally abandoned its stronghold.
By 1884, Belgrade had established a railway connection with Europe. Waterworks were laid, horse-drawn trams were introduced by 1892, and electric lighting was installed by 1893.
The period of prosperity in Belgrade was short-lived, as World War I erupted with the first shots fired at the city's defenses on July 29, 1914, from Austro-Hungarian ships on the Sava River. By 1918, Belgrade had lost much of its industry, suffering from economic stagnation and a population that had dwindled to half its pre-war size.
However, the city's fortunes improved as it became the capital of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes, later known as Yugoslavia. This era saw the construction of new large buildings, boulevards, parks, and bridges across the Sava and Danube rivers.
Belgrade endured further hardship during World War II, facing bombardment by the Germans at the war's outset and later by the Allies as the conflict neared its end.
After World War II, Josip Broz 'Tito', the leader of the communist partisans, seized power and began transforming the country along Soviet lines. However, this Soviet model was soon abandoned in favor of a unique Yugoslav approach to communism. Supported by loans from the West, the country entered a golden age. Following Tito's death, the republics and autonomous provinces began pursuing increasingly independent paths, leading to the conflicts that ravaged the region throughout the 1990s.

Communist era housing and the Air Force Command building damaged during the NATO bombing of 1999

Since then, Belgrade has seen significant construction, and much more development is anticipated and, indeed, needed. As of 2023, a whole new district in Belgrade known as Waterfront is under construction. This project represents one of the largest building construction sites in Europe. Additionally, the construction of the Belgrade subway system has also commenced.

Belgrade Waterfront buildings reflecting the setting Sun

Embarking on a full tour of Belgrade with a start at the iconic Belgrade Fortress offers a fascinating journey through history and culture. As we approach the fortress, we head towards the Lower Town, situated to the south, nestled between the formidable fortress walls and the serene Danube River.
One of the intriguing stops en route is the Dark Gate (Mračna Kapija), a name that instantly captures the imagination. Constructed in a period spanning from 1740 to 1760, this gate is shrouded in mystery, particularly regarding the origins of its somber name. Historical documents refer to it as "Karanlik kapisi," its Turkish name, which translates to "dark gate," hinting at a legacy that predates the modern era.
The renovation of the Dark Gate in 2007 and 2008 unveiled more of its enigmatic past. A closer examination revealed inscriptions in a medley of languages and scripts: Turkish-Arabic, Latin, and Cyrillic. These inscriptions offer silent testimony to the diverse influences that have shaped Belgrade. The Latin inscriptions, likely left by the Austrians during their rule between 1789 and 1791, add another layer to the historical tapestry of this site.

Dark Gate at the bottom of the Belgrade fortress

From an archaeological perspective, the Belgrade fortress continues to hold many secrets. For instance, in 2022, during the construction of the Sava embankment near the fortress, a fragment of the fortifications, including a gate, was uncovered. This discovery temporarily hindered the embankment's construction.

Ruins under the Belgrade fortress

Not far from this location are the remnants of the Metropolitan palace complex. This palace was destroyed in a fire during the Turkish occupation of the city in 1521. The adjacent church met a similar fate, being destroyed at the beginning of the 18th century. The complex was unearthed during excavations in 1977. During these archaeological excavations, part of the marble lintel of the Metropolitan church was found, bearing the founding inscription of Despot Stefan Lazarević (1377-1407). These remains are the only known remnants of the church.

Metropolitan complex under the Belgrade fortress

We now move into the heart of what is known as the Lower Town, which is predominantly a park today. A few centuries ago, the Lower Town was bustling with the houses of merchants and craftsmen, serving as the commercial hub of Belgrade. It was home to several Orthodox and Catholic churches. However, all of this changed at the beginning of the 18th century when the Austrians undertook a Baroque reconstruction of the city, leading to the disappearance of these historical structures.

Lower Town and the Danube river

Charles VI gate

One of the rare surviving structures from the Austrian era of 1717-1739 is the Gate of Charles VI. Constructed in 1736, it was named in honor of the Austrian emperor at the time. Serving not for military purposes but as a triumphal arch, its design is noteworthy. On one side of the gate, above the entrance, is the coat of arms of the Habsburg-ruled Kingdom of Serbia, featuring a boar's head pierced with an arrow. However, this emblem has significantly deteriorated over time, making the boar nearly unrecognizable. On the opposite side of the gate is the monogram of Emperor Charles VI. A peculiar feature of the gate is a plaque on the interior wall, from which every single letter has been meticulously removed. This act was likely carried out by the Turks after they recaptured Belgrade from the Austrians in 1739.

Coat of arms of the Habsburg-ruled Kingdom of Serbia

Medieval censorship, inside the Charles VI gate

Charles VI gate with the monogram of the Emperor

Ascending the stairs from the Lower Town to the fortress, we encounter two churches along the way. The first stop is the Chapel of Saint Petka.
'Sveta Petka' is the Serbian name for Saint Paraskeva of the Balkans, a 10th-century female saint who experienced visions of the Virgin Mary. After her death, her unearthed body became a revered relic. In 1393, it was brought to Belgrade's old Ružica Church. However, when Belgrade fell to the Turks in 1521, the relics were transferred to Constantinople. Today, they are housed in the Metropolitan Cathedral in Iași, Romania.
The current Chapel of St. Petka, constructed in 1937, stands over a natural spring, believed to possess miraculous properties, particularly for curing infertility in women. The spring is situated right in the chapel's altar.
Location of the original Chapel of St. Petka, built in 1417, is unknown. During the construction of the modern chapel, remnants of an older, unidentified temple were discovered, along with the bones of soldiers who died defending Belgrade in 1914 and 1915. Turkish tombstones were also found at the site.
The chapel's interior has been adorned twice. The initial paintings deteriorated quickly due to the poor quality of materials used. The second decoration was done in mosaic form by Dušan Radlović between 1975 and 1982.

St. Petka chapel on the way up to the fortress

Mosaics adorning the interior of the St. Petka Chapel

Outside the Chapel of Saint Petka, more mosaics can be found. One notable mosaic depicts St. Paraskeva, distinguished by its beautiful deep blue hue. This color, often associated with the Virgin Mary, is also used for other saints to symbolize heavenly grace, purity, and the divine.
Nearby, another striking mosaic features a predominant deep red color, commonly representing the blood of martyrs who died for their faith. This is fitting, as the mosaic portrays two saint martyrs. On the right is Deacon Avakum (1794 – 30 December 1814), a Serbian Orthodox monk who inspired his people to rise against the Turks, ultimately meeting a martyr's death. On the left is Pajsiji Ristović (1790 – 1814), an abbot of the Serbian Orthodox Church, who was martyred alongside Avakum. Their deaths in 1814 preceded Miloš Obrenović's leadership in the Second Serbian Uprising of 1815, which led to Serbia's semi-independence from the Ottoman Empire.
Notably, the depiction of Pajsiji Ristović raises a question. Given his dates of birth and death, his portrayal with a gray beard seems too aged for a 24-year-old man. And don't let the bricks depicted in the mosaic fool you.
The Cyrillic text in the middle of the mosaic reads 'Срб је Христов радује се смрти,' translating to 'The Serb is of Christ, rejoices in death.'

Mosaic depicting St. Paraskeva

Mosaic depicting saint martyrs

Above the Chapel of St. Petka lies the Ružica Church. Similar to the Chapel of St. Petka, the Ružica Church is named after a medieval church that no longer exists. Its history dates back to when the Austrians constructed a gunpowder magazine near the spring during the Baroque reconstruction from 1723 to 1739. Despite a treaty obligation to demolish all structures built during this period within the fortress after their defeat by the Turks, the Austrians did not destroy this magazine. The Turks continued to use the building as a gunpowder depot.
Following the departure of the Turks in 1867, the building was repurposed to meet the religious needs of the Serbian garrison. The church’s bell tower was completed in 1869.
During World War I, the church suffered significant damage and nearly faced complete destruction. In October 1915, a grenade, containing a 900 kg cartridge with 96 kg of TNT, hit a nearby fortress wall but, fortunately, did not explode.
The church's reconstruction occurred mainly between 1921 and 1925. Russian émigré Andrej Bicenko was responsible for the interior paintings. Intriguingly, he included portraits of contemporaries within the biblical scenes, such as Russian Tsar Nicholas II and King Peter I of Serbia.

Ružica church and the Belgrade Fortress walls

The Ružica Church, primarily serving as a military church, features unique decorations. Its chandeliers, candelabra, and relief-type icons are crafted from melted military materials, including rifle and pistol bullets, shell casings, and sabers. A closer inspection reveals that the candelabra hanging from the ceiling incorporate sabers and bullet casings in their design.
Outside the church, there are two statues of Serbian soldiers: one representing the Middle Ages and the other from the First Balkan War of 1912-1913. Above one of the church's entrances, a bronze icon of the Mother of God is displayed. The Cyrillic inscription reads 'Рождество Бцы,' short for 'Рождество Богородицы,' translating to 'The Birth of the Mother of God.' In the bottom left corner, the inscription 'Арт. Тех. Зав. Крагујевац 1926' identifies the icon's creator as the Artiljerijsko Tehnički Zavod (Artillery Technical Institute) in Kragujevac.

Metal icon on the facade of the Ružica church

Interior of the Ružica church

Today, the Belgrade fortress stands as one of the city's primary attractions. It is often incorrectly referred to as the Kalemegdan fortress. However, Kalemegdan actually refers to the park situated between the fortress and the city center. To understand this distinction, one can look at the Turkish roots of the word 'Kalemegdan': 'Kale' means fortress, and 'meydan' means field, translating to 'the field in front of the fortress.'
The fortress itself is encircled by multiple layers of walls and fortified gates. These structures are the oldest preserved parts of the Belgrade fortress and, indeed, of Belgrade itself.

Belgrade Fortress and the Sava river

The monument towering over the fortress and visible from a distance is known as 'Pobednik' or 'The Victor.' It was created to commemorate Serbian victories in the Balkan Wars of 1912-1913. Initially called the 'Messenger of Freedom,' the statue depicts a figure holding a sword in one hand and a hawk in the other. Although it was originally intended for Terazije Square, in 1928, due to its controversial nudity that shocked some conservative citizens, it was relocated to the Belgrade fortress.
Directly beneath the Victor monument is the Large Gunpowder Repository. Notably, three of its rooms weren't constructed but rather carved into the solid rock of the hill to provide optimal conditions for storing gunpowder. This feature dates back to the early 18th century when the fortress underwent a Baroque-style reconstruction.
Adjacent to the Victor monument is the building housing Belgrade’s Cultural Heritage Preservation Institute. Nearby, heading towards the city center, is a marble stairway constructed in 1926 to extend the promenade. Originally made of white marble, the stairway's polish has diminished over time due to regular cleaning to remove graffiti.

King's Gate and the Cultural Heritage Preservation Institute at the Belgrade Fortress

Marble Stairway, the terrace, the Sava river and the newly constructed Belgrade Waterfront

Among the various attractions and exhibitions within the Belgrade fortress is the military museum. A portion of the museum's exhibition is situated outdoors and is always accessible to visitors. Here, you can find numerous examples of artillery cannons and tanks. Nearby, there's a red brick structure that, on the inside, resembles the dungeon of a medieval castle. This atmospheric setting is fittingly used for an exhibition of medieval torture instruments.

Military museum items at the Belgrade fortress

Torture museum inside a bastion in the Belgrade fortress

While one side of the Belgrade fortress is characterized by numerous red brick walls, the opposite side noticeably lacks them. This is because the latter represents the best-preserved medieval section of the fortress. In the 18th century, new walls were simply leaned onto the existing structures. This part of the fortress includes several well-preserved towers and gates, among which the most notable is the Zindan Gate, flanked by two protective towers. The name 'Zindan' means 'prison' in Turkish. After losing its primary defensive role in the late 18th century, it was repurposed as a prison.

Zindan Gate

Sunset over Belgrade and the Victor (Pobednik) monument

Arguably the most striking feature of the Belgrade fortress is the panoramic view it offers. From the viewing platform beneath the Victor monument, visitors can take in a vast expanse of the city. While only a small section of the city center is visible from this vantage point, one can clearly see Novi Beograd (New Belgrade), a district dating back to the communist era and characterized by the brutalist architecture of the Genex Tower. Additionally, the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, along with more distant districts of Belgrade, form part of this impressive panorama.

Sunset over the Danube river and Novi Beograd (New Belgrade)

The Ada Bridge (Most na Adi) is a striking cable-stayed bridge spanning 996 meters. Despite its length, it features only one massive pylon, situated on Ada Island, which gives the bridge its name. The pylon stands at an impressive height of 200 meters and is visible from a great distance. Constructed between 2008 and 2011, the bridge accommodates six lanes for vehicular traffic and also includes railway lines. These lines are currently used by trams but are designed to potentially serve subway trains in the future.

Ada bridge

Nowadays, the King's Gate serves as the de facto main entrance to the Belgrade fortress. This gate was constructed within a rampart originally built in the 15th century. The first opening in the rampart was created following the Austrian siege in 1688. Inside the gate, there is a plaque that states, 'BUILT IN 1690-1696 OUTSIDE FACE FROM 1723-1736.' At the inner gate, visitors can see the original wooden doors, which are reinforced with iron plates. Although the outer side of the King's Gate once had similar doors, they have not been preserved.
Originally, a wooden bridge on masonry pillars stood in front of the gate. This was replaced by the current structure in 1928.

King's Gate and the Victor (Pobednik) monument in the evening

King's Gate with the bridge

Inside the King's Gate

The structure known as the 'Roman Well' is not documented in any records until the period between 1721 and 1731. It is believed that the Austrians either constructed it or at least significantly reconstructed it. In reality, the Roman Well is a cistern carved into the rock, intended to supply water during sieges. Although it reaches a depth of 62 meters (10 meters below the level of the Sava and Danube rivers), its water source is not subterranean but rather rainwater collected from the surface. This cistern is accessed by two curved staircases, one for descending and the other for ascending. While the Roman Well is open to visitors during working hours, the staircases themselves are closed to the public.

Roman Well

Centrally located within the fortress, the Clock Tower, also known by its Turkish name 'Sahat Tower,' was constructed in the mid-18th century. Despite being built by the Turks, it incorporates elements of Baroque architecture and stands at 27.5 meters high. The tower has been preserved in its original form.
The history of the gates is a bit more complex. Currently, there are two main gates: the larger one to the left is known as the Clock Gate, and the one on the right as the Baroque Gate.
The original passageway, now the Clock Gate, was constructed by the Austrians in 1688 through a 15th-century rampart, much like the King’s Gate. When the Turks regained control of the fortress in 1690, they sealed this gate. Later, during the Austrian occupation of the fortress from 1717 to 1739, the Baroque Gate was created and built from brick, cutting through the existing structures. The old gate remained walled. This architectural decision was driven by the Austrians' desire for symmetric bastions.

The Clock Tower and Gate, with the Baroque gate to the right

After the Turks reclaimed the fortress, they sealed off the Baroque Gate, and the Clock Gate was reopened for use. It was during this period that the Clock Tower, the first of its kind in Belgrade, was constructed atop the gate.
In 1987, the Baroque Gate underwent revitalization, and the gallery of the Belgrade fortress was established within it.
The reconstruction of the gates in 2003 revealed evidence of prehistoric human habitation in the area.
In May 2021, a lightning strike damaged the modern electronic mechanism of the clock and destroyed its wiring, causing the clock to stop at 15:15. Fortunately, repairs were completed, and in November 2021, the clock was restarted and set back in motion.

Inside the Clock Tower gate

While an exhaustive exploration of the gates of the Belgrade fortress could fill an entire book, let's examine one more notable gate for this article: the Defterdar Gate. This gate is the sole direct access point to the Lower Town. To reach the Large Gunpowder Repository from within the fortress, one must pass through the Defterdar Gate. However, visitors should be aware that tickets may need to be purchased at the entrance to the Roman Well, as they might not be available at the entrance to the Gunpowder Repository.
Constructed in the 1690s, the Defterdar Gate occupies the site of an older medieval gate. The gate's name comes from the title 'Defterdar,' which referred to a high-ranking official responsible for managing the finances of the Ottoman Empire.

Defterdar Gate

Kneza Mihaila street

The most direct route from Kalemegdan Park to the center of Belgrade is via Kneza Mihaila Street, also known as Knez Mihailova Street. Renowned as the main pedestrian and shopping zone in Belgrade, this street is named after Mihailo Obrenović III, a Serbian prince. The majority of the buildings along the street were constructed between the 1870s and the 1930s. Today, the entire street is under government protection as part of the city's cultural heritage.
In the Roman era, this area was significant for its roads and aqueducts. During almost every construction project on Kneza Mihaila and its neighboring streets that involves excavation, historical remains are unearthed. Some of these remains are conserved and then reburied.

Kneza Mihaila street

After World War II, in 1949, Kneza Mihaila Street underwent significant reconstruction, largely carried out by volunteers. It experienced another major renovation in 1987, which transformed it into a pedestrian zone. This renovation also brought about its distinctive pavement of black granite blocks and the installation of a white marble drinking fountain.
While each building on the street has its own history, warranting a book or at least a separate article, the best piece of advice for those walking through the street is to always look up. This approach allows visitors to appreciate the wide variety of classical architecture and stunning edifices. One of the most notable buildings is the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts.
Near the Kalemegdan Park end of the street is the Rajićeva Shopping Center, the most controversial building on Kneza Mihaila. Its modern glass and concrete structure stands in stark contrast to the general architectural style of the street, sparking debate about its fit within the historical context.

Heavy rain is the only way to photograph Kneza Mihaila street in the evening without crowds

During the Austrian rule from 1717 to 1739, a grand Württemberg Palace was constructed at the site of what is now Republic Square. Nearby, the Württemberg Gate was also built. Although its exact appearance remains unknown, it was likely quite large and monumental. However, both the palace and the gate were demolished in 1739.
After the return of the Turks, they built the so-called Stambol Gate near the remnants of the demolished Württemberg Gate. This gate was named for its location at the start of the Tsarigrad Road, leading to Tsarigrad (the Serbian name for Constantinople). 'Stambol' was a colloquial Serbian term for Istanbul.
However, the Stambol Gate became notorious for being a site of numerous executions carried out by the Turkish regime, symbolizing oppression. In 1866, by the order of Prince Michael (Knez Mihailo), the gate was demolished as part of an effort to erase this symbol of tyranny.

Republic Square, with the National Museum (left) and the National Opera (right)

The National Theater in Belgrade was constructed in 1869. It suffered damage during World War I and underwent reconstruction in 1922. The onset of World War II brought further damage, leading to another reconstruction, this time by the Germans, in 1942.
In 1882, a monument dedicated to Prince Michael (Knez Mihailo Obrenović III, 1823-1868) was erected. Prince Michael is renowned for his significant political achievement: the complete expulsion of the Turks from Serbia in 1867 and the liberation of seven cities under their control. Tragically, he was assassinated in 1868 in Košutnjak, one of Belgrade's forest-parks. The monument was sculpted by Italian artist Enrico Pazzi.
The building that houses the National Museum was originally constructed in 1903 to serve as the central mortgage bank. Over time, it transitioned to its current role as the home of the National Museum.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Terazije was one of the most prominent squares in Belgrade. The majority of its buildings were only 2 to 3 stories high, and most were demolished shortly after World War II.
Today, Terazije Street presents a diverse array of architectural styles, ranging from Renaissance to Brutalism. Some buildings on the street date back to the 1870s, making Terazije a showcase of architectural styles from nearly every decade since then.
The tallest building on the street, constructed in 1939, was once the highest in the entire city. Known as the 'Palace Albania,' this building stands at the northern end of Terazije, dominating the street with its imposing presence.

Communist-era buildings on Terazije street

A prime example of post-World War II concrete brutalist architecture is the 'Belgrade' department store, constructed in 1958. Designed by architect Lavoslav Horvat from Zagreb, the building features a distinctive slightly curved design. It includes a colonnade on the ground floor, horizontal rows of square windows, and an open upper part. Due to its substantial size, the department store has significantly influenced the architectural landscape of the surrounding buildings in Terazije.
In the 1960s, two underground passages were added to the area. One of these was initially intended to serve as an underground shopping mall.

Hotel Moskva

Perhaps the most striking building on Terazije Street is the Hotel Moskva, constructed between 1905 and 1908. Initially named Rossiya Palace, it was owned by the Rossiya Insurance Company from St. Petersburg. The building also served as a political statement during the escalating tensions between Serbia and Austria-Hungary.
The architect, Jovan Ilkić, finalized the construction plans in St. Petersburg. Building the hotel was a challenging endeavor due to the eleven active water springs underneath it, a condition that persists to this day.
In the spring of 1941, the building became the headquarters of the Gestapo. They renamed it Hotel Velika Srbija (Great Serbia), after the original inn that previously occupied the site. In 1945, the hotel resumed operations and reverted to its original name, Moskva.
The fountain in front of the hotel was created in 1860 by Italian stone cutter Francesco Franco Lorano. Crafted from limestone, it was erected to commemorate Prince Miloš Obrenović's return to Serbia, as indicated by the inscription 'M.O. I 1860.' The fountain was moved to Topčider in 1912 and returned to Terazije in 1975. Remarkably, its original design has been fully preserved.

Building that houses the Historical Museum

As we transition from Terazije towards Nikola Pašić Square, it's worth taking a moment to observe the building that currently houses the Historical Museum of Serbia. Constructed in 1934, this imposing structure was originally built for the Agrarna Banka (Agrarian Bank). From 1948 to 1965, it served as the headquarters of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of Yugoslavia, which was the highest authority in the state.
The Historical Museum of Serbia now occupies only the first floor of the building and presents a compact yet significant exhibition.

House of the National Assembly and the General Post Office

House of the National Assembly of the Republic of Serbia

The most prominent feature of Nikola Pašić Square is the House of the National Assembly of the Republic of Serbia. The construction of this building was a protracted affair. Its cornerstone was laid in 1907, but it wasn't completed until 1936. The construction faced numerous delays due to wars, changes in government, and the formation of the new country – the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes.
Another significant building at the square is the General Post Office of Belgrade, constructed between 1935 and 1938. Its facade is adorned with granite slabs and artificial stone. At the time of its construction, the building sparked controversy due to its architectural style, which Serbian historian Milan St. Protić described as 'typically Hitlerian neoclassicism.'

Located in Tašmajdan Park, the modern St. Mark's Church was constructed near the site of an old cemetery church from 1836, which was destroyed at the beginning of World War II.
The foundation stone for the new St. Mark's Church was laid in 1931, and its exterior was completed by 1939. However, the outbreak of World War II interrupted its full completion, and as of 2023, the interior decorations remain unfinished.
The church's design was inspired by the Gračanica Monastery, a Serbian Orthodox monastery in Kosovo built in 1321.
Until the construction of the Temple of St. Sava, St. Mark's Church held the distinction of being the largest church in Serbia. Its exterior is celebrated as one of the finest examples of Serbo-Byzantine architectural style.

St. Mark's church, Belgrade

Kneza Miloša and Nemanjina Streets are among the key thoroughfares in Belgrade's city center and serve as major traffic arteries. Ironically, they are often subject to closures, particularly on weekends, due to various political demonstrations, leading to significant traffic disruptions.
Kneza Miloša Street begins at Nikola Pašić Square and extends southwest, intersecting with Nemanjina Street. Both streets are lined with numerous large classical buildings dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. On Nemanjina Street, many of these structures house various government institutions.
A poignant reminder of the 1999 NATO bombing campaign is still visible at the intersection of these two streets. Here, the ruins of the former Ministry of Defense and the General Staff Headquarters stand as a testament to the city's turbulent past.

Nemanjina street

One of the most impressive historical buildings on Nemanjina Street is located at No. 6, housing various organizations and institutions connected to the Serbian railways. This building was constructed between 1927 and 1931, during a period when the Serbian railways were at the peak of their success and were known for their efficiency and precision, a sharp contrast to their current state. Notably, a small railway museum is housed within this building. Visitors can find the entrance to the museum to the right of the main entrance.

Railways headquarters on Nemanjina street

After World War II, river trade in Belgrade diminished, and fishing transitioned from a vocation to a sport. Consequently, life along the rivers gradually declined. For several decades, many of the riverbanks, particularly along the right bank of the Sava River, were dominated by repositories, factories, and often just industrial wastelands.
This began to change around 2015, with the initiation of plans for a massive complex comprising residential, commercial, and office buildings. During its construction, the Belgrade Waterfront project emerged as the second-largest construction site in Europe. The project's estimated cost is around 3.5 billion USD, with investments being a joint venture between the Serbian government and the Abu Dhabi-based private investment and development company Eagle Hills.

Belgrade Waterfront

A centerpiece of the Belgrade Waterfront project is the Kula Belgrade (meaning 'tower' in Serbian), a towering mixed-use skyscraper. Standing at 168 meters (551 feet) with 42 floors, it is a dominant feature of the area. A portion of the building will house a luxury hotel. Interestingly, due to the inclusion of a two-level 12th floor, the 13th floor will be omitted from the elevator control panel, following a common superstitious practice in building design. The 41st floor is designed to feature a 360-degree observation deck, which is expected to be open to the public.
Adjacent to the tower is the Galerija Belgrade, the largest shopping center in Serbia. This expansive mall offers a wide array of clothing stores, restaurants, and other retail outlets, catering to diverse shopping and dining preferences.

Inside the Galerija Shopping Center

In 1934, the King Alexander Bridge, a magnificent structure, was constructed over the Sava River. It was hailed as a gorgeous and significant addition to the infrastructure of Belgrade.
However, in 1941, in an attempt to halt the advancing German army, the Royal Yugoslav Army made the strategic decision to demolish this bridge, along with all other bridges in Belgrade. Tragically, this action led to a disastrous incident. While the bridge was being demolished in the dead of night, Yugoslav military ships were passing underneath. The collapsing bridge fell onto these ships, resulting in the loss of 95 out of the 110 soldiers and crew members aboard.
After World War II, only the reinforced concrete pylons of the bridge, which were designed in the Serbo-Byzantine style, remained. On these pylons, a new bridge was constructed in 1956, now known as Branko's Bridge. The pylons were originally adorned with heraldic emblems. These decorations survived the war but were removed in 1960 during the communist era.

Branko's bridge

As tram lines run beneath Branko’s Bridge, it's a common spot to see Belgrade’s distinctive green trams, which have a history of their own. These trams were originally in service on the streets of Basel, Switzerland. From 2001 to 2017, the city of Basel donated decommissioned trams to Belgrade. In total, 115 vehicles were received, comprising 65 tramcars and 50 trams. Most of these are Duewag GT6 or Schindler trams, manufactured in the late 1960s and 1970s.

Belgrade's green tram underneath the Branko's bridge

Belgrade's green tram up close

In the early 20th century, just before World War I, the Savamala district, nestled between Branko’s Bridge, Terazije, and the Sava River, was one of Belgrade's most prestigious and densely populated areas. However, heavy bombardment by Austro-Hungarian forces during World War I inflicted significant damage on the area, halting its development, which only resumed after the war.
The district suffered further during World War II. Post-1948, with the state and city authorities focusing on the construction of New Belgrade, Savamala's prominence waned. Its transformation into a transit route exacerbated its decline, as noise and air pollution deterred residential appeal.
Currently, Savamala is undergoing a gradual process of reconstruction. The district's main street, Karadjordjeva, still houses many buildings from the 1920s, preserving a glimpse of its historical character.

Belgrade Cooperative building (left) with Karadjordjeva street ahead

Belgrade Cooperative building

The most prominent structure in Savamala is undoubtedly the Belgrade Cooperative building. The Belgrade Cooperative was a bank established in 1882, aimed at promoting savings and supporting small businesses, craftspeople, and the underprivileged in Belgrade.
Constructed between 1905 and 1907, this building is one of the major architectural achievements of Nikola Nestorović and Andra Stevanović, with their most notable work being the National Museum of Serbia. The design of the Belgrade Cooperative building was significantly influenced by the 1900 Paris Exhibition, where the decorative style of the Paris school was prominently showcased.
The architectural style of the Belgrade Cooperative building is academism, incorporating elements from both eclectic academic style and contemporary Art Nouveau. Its decorative motifs are derived from post-Renaissance, predominantly Baroque, influences, but they are modernly interpreted to create a unique stylistic expression.

Entrace into the Belgrade Cooperative building

Ceiling inside the Belgrade Cooperative building

The Belgrade Cooperative moved into its namesake building immediately after its completion in 1907 and remained there until the cooperative's dissolution. Subsequently, the building became the home of the 'Jovan Žujović' Geological and Geophysical Institute (Geozavod). During World War II, the building suffered damage from the bombing on April 6, 1941, but it was promptly repaired. Further damage occurred in 1944 during another air raid, which caused a significant part of the roof to collapse.
A major renovation of the building was undertaken in 2014. Today, one of Belgrade's most exclusive restaurants, 'Salon 1905', is situated on the second floor of this historic building.

Republic Square and the National Museum at night

Caryatids at the entrance to the National Museum

As previously mentioned in the context of Republic Square, the building that now houses the National Museum of Serbia was originally constructed in 1903 to serve the Funds Administration (Uprava Fondova). This institution, established in 1862, holds the distinction of being the first Serbian credit institution and was reorganized as an independent bank in 1898.
During World War II, the building sustained damage, but it was repaired in the 1950s. It was during this time that the National Museum of Serbia relocated to this building. Concurrently, the main entrance was moved from Republic Square to Vase Čarapića Street. This entrance is notably adorned with rows of white marble caryatids, sculpted by Croatian architect Ivan Meštrović.

Stairs inside the National Museum

Today, the National Museum of Serbia boasts an extensive array of collections, appealing to a wide range of interests. It houses collections of prehistoric artifacts, offering insights into early human history. The numismatic collections, with a variety of coins and other currency-related items, are housed in the original bank vaults, adding to the museum's unique character.
The museum also features significant collections of medieval archaeological findings, which not only represent Serbian history but also establish the museum as a key historical resource.
In terms of art, the museum's most extensive collection is dedicated to Yugoslav and Serbian art from the 17th to the 20th centuries, comprising over 6000 pieces. However, the museum's artistic reach extends beyond local art. It includes a remarkable collection of international works, featuring the French masters collection with pieces by renowned artists like Matisse, Picasso, Renoir, and Hubert Robert, among others.

Hubert Robert painting in the National Museum

15th-16th century pottery from the Studenica monastery exhibited in the National Museum

The Old and New Palaces were utilized by Serbian royalty. Given that we will mention numerous names in this context, it is prudent to offer a simplified timeline of the last Serbian rulers to avoid confusion.

Old Palace, side facing the National Assembly building

To discuss the Old and New Palaces, we must begin in the park situated between the two buildings. Here stood a palace constructed in the early 1840s, known in Serbian as 'Stari Konak' (Old Inn). This inn served as the residence for Serbian rulers from Aleksandar Karađorđević in 1843 to Aleksandar Obrenović (Alexander I).
King Alexander was not a popular ruler, and there were numerous attempts on his life. Eventually, a conspiracy was orchestrated by a group of army officers led by Captain Dragutin Dimitrijević, along with Novak Perišić, a young Serbian Orthodox militant in the pay of the Russian Empire and leader of the Black Hand secret society (allegedly involved in the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo in 1914). On the morning of June 11, 1903, the conspirators stormed the Old Inn. King Alexander and Queen Draga sought refuge inside the palace, but they were ultimately found and shot. In a brutal act, their bodies were mutilated and disemboweled, then thrown from a second-floor window of the palace onto piles of garden manure. Subsequently, the Old Inn was demolished in 1904.

Mostly original garden-facing side of the Old Palace

Garden-facing side of the Old Palace

The building known as the Old Palace was constructed between 1882 and 1884 during the reign of Milan Obrenović. It served as a venue for state occasions, and it was here that Milan abdicated in favor of his son, Aleksandar, in 1889. From 1903 to 1922, the Old Palace housed the Karađorđević dynasty, although it was not deemed suitable for the royal family's permanent residence.
The Old Palace sustained significant damage during World War II. Its reconstruction, which lasted until 1947, included a complete redesign of the facade facing Nikola Pašić Square. The garden-facing facade, despite partial destruction, largely retains its original design, and is considered one of the finest examples of 19th-century Serbian academism.
Today, the Old Palace functions as the City Assembly of Belgrade.
The construction of the New Palace began in 1911. However, the building suffered considerable damage during World War I, even before its completion. It was finally finished in 1922 and served as the official residence until 1934, when the royal family relocated to the newly built Beli dvor (White Palace). Currently, the New Palace is the official seat of the President of Serbia.

New Palace, photographed from the garden side

Let's turn our attention to Savski Trg (Sava Square), where the monument to Stefan Nemanja is a prominent feature. Before discussing the monument, it's worth noting the significant building behind it. This structure formerly housed the old Belgrade Main railway station until 2018. With the development of the Belgrade Waterfront project, the railway tracks were removed, necessitating the station's relocation.
Constructed in 1884, the building was heavily damaged after World War II and underwent extensive reconstruction. While the original interior details were lost, the exterior has remained mostly intact. The Historical Museum of Serbia is expected to move into this building. However, this transition requires major renovations due to the building's significant deterioration. As of 2023, the timeline for these renovations remains uncertain.

Stefan Nemanja monument and the former Central Railway Station

Returning to the monument at Sava Square, it commemorates Stefan Nemanja (1113 or 1114 - 1199), a pivotal medieval Serbian ruler and founder of the Nemanjić dynasty. Nemanja played a key role in establishing and expanding the Serbian state in the 12th century. He initially governed the Grand Principality of Serbia before abdicating in favor of his son, Stefan the First-Crowned.
Nemanja's contributions extend to the Serbian Orthodox Church. After relinquishing his throne, he took monastic vows, adopting the name Saint Simeon, and joined his son, Saint Sava, at Mount Athos. There, they founded the Hilandar Monastery in 1198, which quickly became a center of Serbian religious and cultural life.
The monument depicts Stefan Nemanja holding a sword in his right hand and the Hilandar charter in his left. This portrayal was chosen to emphasize his role as a great prefect and statesman, symbolized by the sword, rather than his religious persona as Saint Simeon, which would typically be represented with a cross.

Ruler's scepter inside the "Byzantine helmet"

The pedestal of the Stefan Nemanja monument is composed of several symbolic elements. Its base is represented as a cracked Byzantine helmet, symbolizing Nemanja's quest for independence from the Byzantine Empire. Rising from this helmet is a ruler's scepter, emblematic of sovereignty.
The pedestal is adorned with reliefs that illustrate various scenes from Nemanja's life and significant events in Serbian history during his reign. Additionally, the exterior of the pedestal features depictions of the Studenica and Hilandar Monasteries. These monasteries are not only Stefan Nemanja’s most significant endowments but also stand as enduring legacies of his reign.
The monument was crafted by Russian sculptor Alexandr Rukavishnikov and transported from Moscow to Belgrade in 2020. Including the pedestal, it weighs 80 tons and reaches a height of 23.5 meters, making it the tallest monument in Serbia.

Image of the Hilandar Monastery cast onto the pedestal

The Cathedral Church of St. Michael the Archangel, a Serbian Orthodox church, is situated near the city center and Kneza Mihaila Street. Constructed between 1837 and 1840, it stands as the second oldest church in Belgrade.
The church's architectural style is Neoclassical with a Baroque tower, a design influenced by similar churches built in Austria during that era.
Externally, the church might not appear particularly unique or monumental. However, its interior tells a different story. The inside of the church is stunning and exquisite, offering an ambiance reminiscent of the grand palaces of the wealthiest kings from the old world.

St. Michael's church in the evening

The cathedral church's artistic transformation fell into the capable hands of Dimitrije Avramović (1815–1855), a celebrated 19th-century Serbian painter. From 1841 to 1845, Avramović crafted a stunning visual narrative, adorning the walls with eighteen expansive compositions and contributing nearly fifty intricately detailed icons to the iconostasis.

Interior of the St. Michael's church

Iconostasis at the St. Michael's church

Immersed in the historical school of Vienna, Avramović also drew inspiration from German Nazarenes. While this might sound unfamiliar, these were artists who sought to revive the sincerity and spiritual depth found in medieval art. Avramović, however, took it a step further by infusing his creations with a captivating interplay of colors, creating a dramatic palette. His distinctive style of skillful manipulation of the visual elements of his artwork - such as form, color, and space - to convey a sense of drama and intensity not only set him apart but also became a defining hallmark of Serbian art.
Among the people buried in the church, there are names that the reader of this article should be familiar with: Prince Miloš Obrenović, and Prince Mihailo Obrenović – the one after which the Kneza Mihaila street was named and whose monument stands at the Republic square.

Recently, the Church of Saint Sava has emerged as the most prominent landmark in Belgrade. Ranking among the largest Orthodox cathedrals in the world, it is dedicated to Saint Sava, who, alongside his father Stefan Nemanja, played a pivotal role in founding the Serbian Orthodox Church. The cathedral is constructed on the site believed to be St. Sava's grave, though the exact location of his grave remains a topic of debate among Serbian historians. A notable historical event tied to this location is the burning of St. Sava's coffin in 1595 by Ottoman Grand Vizier Sinan Pasha. The coffin, originally housed in Mileševa Monastery, was moved to Belgrade, where it was subsequently placed on a pyre and destroyed.

St. Sava Church on a summer night

The foundation stone of the Church of Saint Sava was laid in 1935, but construction was interrupted by World War II. At that time, the cathedral's walls were only between 7 and 11 meters high. During the war, the incomplete structure was utilized by the German army as a depot and storage facility for military equipment. Following the war, the Yugoslav army and later various companies also used it for similar storage purposes.
The Communist regime in Yugoslavia did not allow construction to resume until 1984. However, the eventual authorization to continue led to a significant moment on May 12, 1985, when over 100,000 people gathered in Belgrade to celebrate. This event symbolized the weakening of Communist Yugoslavia's atheistic regime and the resurgence of religion in the country.
A notable milestone in the construction was the elevation of the 4,000-ton central dome. Constructed on the ground, complete with its copper plate and cross, it was later raised onto the vaulted arches over a period of 20 days using specially designed hydraulic machines. This complex operation was completed on June 26, 1989. By 2004, all exterior work on the church was finished.
In terms of design, the Church of Saint Sava was envisioned to mirror the dimensions and architecture of Hagia Sophia. Similar to the famous Byzantine basilica, the central square beneath the dome is a fundamental element of the church's construction concept.

Main entrance with one of three choir galleries

The oldest visible elements within the Church of Saint Sava are its columns. In 1939, the materials for the sixteen grand columns in the choir were imported from Italy. The capitals are crafted from Carrara marble, while the columns themselves are made of green marble from Baveno. Designed by Aleksandar Deroko, the motifs of the capitals were largely executed by Josif Grassi prior to World War II.
A remarkable feature of the church is the great central wheel chandelier, which serves as the main lighting fixture. Cast in bronze and measuring 20 meters in diameter, it weighs approximately 14 tonnes. This chandelier was designed by Nikolaj Mukhin, who is also responsible for the mosaic decorations within the church.
While the cathedral's sheer size is impressive, its most stunning aspect is undoubtedly the mosaics. The lead artists for these works are Nikolay Mukhin, known for his frescoes in the Cathedral of Christ the Savior in Moscow, and his colleague Yevgeniy Maksimov, both of whom are members of the Russian Academy of Arts in Moscow. The artists were selected from the Moscow School of Painting, Sculpture and Architecture, and the Repin Institute of Arts at the Imperial Academy of Arts in Saint Petersburg.
Remarkably, over 40 percent of the mosaics in the cathedral are crafted from golden smalt, which consists of 24-carat leaf gold sealed between two plates of transparent glass. Covering a total area of 15,000 square meters, these mosaics required more than 300 tons of smalt and the dedicated work of over 600 artists. The use of pure precious metals ensures that the materials retain their original appearance over time.

Mosaics of the church of St. Sava

Mosaic underneath the central dome

The mosaics within the Church of Saint Sava are a tapestry of Biblical narratives, Serbian rulers, prayer texts, and depictions of Christ, Holy Mary, Archangels, Apostles, and various Saints. The centerpiece of the dome is a stunning mosaic illustrating the Ascension of Jesus. This artwork portrays the Resurrected Christ seated on a rainbow, with his right hand raised in blessing, encircled by angels, Apostles, and Theotokos (Mother of God). This composition draws inspiration from the mosaics in the main dome of St. Mark's Basilica in Venice.
However, the mosaic that immediately captures attention upon entering the church is the depiction of the Lord Savior blessing with both hands. This impactful first impression is precisely what the artists intended. The image of Christ Pantocrator (Ruler of All) is the largest in the cathedral, with the figure's arms spanning an impressive 17.35 meters. This grand scale and prominent placement underscore the significance of the artwork in the spiritual and artistic narrative of the cathedral.

Underneath the choir gallery to the left of the main entrance

Ceiling underneath one of the choir galleries

The Church of Saint Sava houses choir galleries on three sides, with the capacity to accommodate up to 700 cantors, showcasing the church's commitment to musical excellence. As of 2023, two elevators, still in the process of being completed, are planned to transport visitors to the top of the church, just beneath the dome. Once operational, these elevators will provide access to a viewing platform. Given the church's dome is one of the highest points in Belgrade, the view from this vantage point promises to be truly spectacular, offering a panoramic perspective of the city.

Crypt of the St. Sava church

Beneath the floor of the Church of Saint Sava lies a crypt. The construction of the crypt, blessed by the late Patriarch Pavle, commenced in 2001. To complete this ambitious project, approximately 15,000 cubic meters of earth were excavated. By 2002, the crypt's ceiling was completed, allowing the temple's floor to be ready for the Christmas liturgy.
The crypt's walls and ceilings are adorned with a series of paintings depicting scenes from the New Testament and featuring prominent figures from both distant and recent Serbian history. Interestingly, the artwork is not limited to Serbian figures. A careful observer can spot, for instance, an image of Russian Tsar Nicholas II, who was canonized as a martyred saint in 1981. This inclusion of international figures adds a broader historical and cultural dimension to the crypt's artistic narrative.

Church of the Holy Prince and Martyr Lazarus in the crypt

The central position in the crypt is occupied by the burial Church of the Holy Prince and Martyr Lazarus. Lazar Hrebeljanović (c. 1329 – 15 June 1389) was a medieval Serbian ruler who created the largest and most powerful state on the territory of the disintegrated Serbian Empire.
Lazar was killed in the Battle of Kosovo in 1389 while leading a Christian army assembled to confront the invading Ottoman Empire, led by Sultan Murad I. The battle ended without a clear victor, with both sides enduring heavy losses.
The altar of that church is located directly underneath the altar area of ​​the Church of St. Sava. The whole place could fit nicely into a Dan Brown novel, with the crypt's stone iconostasis featuring all kinds of symbols, including Coat of arms of Prince Lazar - a horned helmet, similar to one painted on a wall of the 14th century Hilandar Monastery.

Left side of the iconostasis of the Church of the Holy Prince and Martyr Lazarus

Numerous paintings depict Bible stories. Even if you are not familiar with the Bible, if you can read cyrillic you can get enough clues from the texts to identify the exact stories which are depicted. For example, the cyrillic texts that read "Sejač i seme" (The sower and the seed), "Vama je dano da znate tajne carstva božijega" (It has been given to you to know the mysteries of the kingdom of heaven), "Onima napolju biva da gledaju a nevide" (Those in the field see but do not percieve) refer to the Parable of the Sower.

The Sower and the Seed

The 'Jevremovac' Botanical Gardens were founded in 1874 by the Ministry of Education of the Kingdom of Serbia, following a suggestion from biologist Josif Pančić. Originally located close to the Danube River, the gardens were later relocated due to the constant threat of flooding. In 1889, Milan Obrenović donated the estate he had inherited from his grandfather Jevrem as a site for the new gardens, with the sole condition that they be named 'Jevremovac.'
Covering approximately 10 acres, the gardens host around 2,500 different plant species. Among the most notable features are the Greenhouse and the Japanese garden. The Greenhouse, constructed in 1892 and spanning 500 sq. m, houses over 1,000 species of tropical and subtropical plants. After partial collapse in June 2005, it was completely deconstructed and then rebuilt from 2012 to 2014.
The Japanese garden, opened in 2004, includes artificial water flow over cascades and a central pond with water lilies. The pond is filled from a natural spring located nearly 100 meters below ground, which also serves to water all the plants in the Botanical Garden.

Inside the Greenhouse at the Belgrade's Botanical Garden

Japanese Garden

The Museum of Contemporary Art, located in the Novi Beograd (New Belgrade) district near the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, was built in 1965. The building itself boasts an interesting layout. Unfortunately, the upper floors are not always open; their accessibility depends on the current exhibition. Sometimes, these exhibitions feature only a small number of objects and a film, shown in a special room within the museum. Other times, there are numerous objects to view, spread across all the floors of the building.
The area surrounding the museum is also noteworthy, as it is one of the largest parks in Belgrade.

Modern Arts Museum building

Inside the Modern Arts Museum

The Genex Tower, also known as the Western City Gate, is a 117-meter-tall skyscraper built in the brutalist style in the early 1970s in the New Belgrade district. The building consists of two towers connected by a two-floor bridge. The taller tower is for residential use, while the shorter one was designed to house businesses and belonged to the state-owned Genex Group (General Export), leading to the building's nickname, the Genex Tower.
As the company went bankrupt in 2015, the business tower of the Western Gate was put up for sale, causing considerable controversy, especially among the owners of the residential tower. The round 'saucer' structure on top is a restaurant, which, as of 2023, is defunct. In 2021, the building was declared a cultural monument.

Western City Gate (Genex Tower)

Until 1934, Zemun was a separate city with significant history, now part of Belgrade. In the 18th and 19th centuries, this city often acted as a window to Europe from the oriental city of Belgrade, a role made possible by its location on the bank of the Danube River. Today, numerous churches and many buildings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries showcase traditional European architectural styles of that era. Even though Zemun might not be the cleanest part of Belgrade, it still retains its attractiveness.
The main point of attraction in Zemun is Gardoš Hill, where numerous cobbled streets, small alleys, and stairways lead up to the summit. Atop the hill stands the Millennium Tower, erected for the 1896 celebration of 1,000 years since the Hungarian arrival in the Pannonian Basin. Such a tower was erected at each of the four cardinal points of Hungary, with Zemun, as the southernmost point, receiving this one. After World War I, all the towers, once symbols of Hungarian domination, were destroyed due to their distance from the new Hungarian borders, except for the tower in Zemun. Visitors to the tower enjoy magnificent views of the entire Zemun district and large parts of Belgrade.

Gardoš Tower

View towards Zemun district from the Gardoš Tower

View towards Belgrade and Zemun district from the Gardoš Tower

Located 16 kilometers southeast of Belgrade’s center, Mount Avala offers a natural retreat from the city’s chaos. Standing 511 meters high and almost entirely forested, the mountain has roads and paths that allow easy access to its summit.
The two primary points of interest at the top of the mountain are the Monument to the Unknown Hero and the TV tower.
Not far from the location of the present-day monument, a Serbian soldier was buried in 1915 during WW I. His grave was marked with a cross. In 1920, a popular news topic in Serbia was the burial of the French "unknown soldier" in Paris. The idea of doing the same quickly became popular in Serbia.
In 1922, a smaller, temporary monument was erected. It was a pyramid, with the base of 3x3 meters and 5 meters tall. To make space for the monument, an ancient fortress town Žrnov was demolished.

Road to the Monument at Mount Avala

In 1938 the new monument was built. It was designed by Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović – readers of this article should already be familiar with his works at the entrance to the National Museum. The monument is designed as a sarcophagus made of black granite, surrounded by caryatids representing all the peoples of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. They represent Bosnian, Montenegrin, Dalmatian, Croatian, Slovenian, Vojvodina’s, Serbian and South Serbian women. The top of the sarcophagus is marked with an inscription reading "Alexander I King of Yugoslavia to the Unknown Hero".
Remains of the unknown soldier, which were exhumed and closely analyzed before the construction of the original monument, were put into a new coffin which was placed into the crypt inside the monument.

Monument to the Unknown Hero at Mount Avala

Another major point of interest at Mount Avala is the TV tower. 205 meters tall, it has a rather unusual structure – it is not perched directly into the ground, but is standing on three legs, which distribute the weight of more than 4,000 tons. There is an observation deck at the height of 122 meters.
The original tower was built in 1965, but was destroyed on 29 April 1999, during the NATO bombing of Yugoslavia. The present tower, which is almost identical to the original, was built between 2007 and 2010.

Avala TV Tower